sandrabacklund.ss10

Sandra Backlund's SS10 collection is one of her next messages in the story of shapes and architecture. Full of silent codes and hidden letters. just.play.with.it.

unpublished

Emptiness, self-hypnotizing thoughts and worried eyes on the white (‘le blanc’) faces are going to surround us this fall with new powerful fashion catwalk wave. Indeed, autumn is no always depressing, even literally its all about fall – whether its simple leaves or not so simple human creatures. I’m not sure we should look for the reasons in some kind of specific era, ideology or person. It has always been like that. No matter when: during Roman Empire sunset, medieval religious pessimism, materialistic 18-th century or the latest decadent movements. All of them have its own tale and illusion, based on nihilism, extreme individualism and wrong self-realization. Despite on over sizing feeling of being under a death sentence, soaked in apathetic eroticism, we have a great chance of wordless conversation – that’s exactly the point fashion works for.
I can’t get back the historical approach of the question, even though every transition signed with nervous and sensually painful being; modern fashion depression mood is unique example of global multicultural mix. Suppose, we can start such excursion with Victor&Rolf, whose collection was full of lifeless Greco-roman muses, right from the Aids dark kingdom’s party. Did they come here again to remind us about the final antique days of glory or to aware of being too spoiled by euphonious diffusion of freedom? Whatsoever, Victor&Rolf’s Melpomenes are real tragic creatures wearing their stone colored classical draped long-sleeved garment mixed with 3D shapes and high belt. Medieval spirit inspired designers for fall season really seriously. Haider Ackermann’s women were seen as helpless, beautiful, and pure – unrealistic in its holy nuns grey dresses. You can easily imagine them ascetic alchemist or hiding warrior like Jean D’Ark. Haider’s ghost-like-girls are trying to brake up with traditions, blind uses and religious slaving with its prohibitions and rules. More active reactionary were walking in Hussein Chalayan leather corsets with cut-out tailoring or in long skirted dresses. Wet and cold stoned colours of his outfits mixed with possessed make up definitely made for those who won’t be missing absolute beliefs and indisputable authorities. As well as Alexander Wang seductive armourers. Bit androgynous in their tight leather trousers, self-confident and sexual creatures, ready for the time traveling and uncompromised steps, just to feel the complexity of their emotions and adrenalin taste.

Bored with ridiculousness of existed social and political rules, Ann Demeulemeester’s girls are silent escapists, choosing wood as the best place for their own ideal world. Passive thinkers and watchers in leather polished corsets, masculine jackets, riding boots and long gloves, they don’t want to be fooled by civilization with its unseen choice dictations and illusions. Where else can you hide your whiteness (purity), like in the forest darkness? Strict duality of world, where you can hardly understand what marks as bad, and what as good was clearly seen at Rick Owens show. His heroines are scary, dramatic, lost and synthesizing every moment. Faceless and ageless, stuck in own emotions, forceful dynamism and therefore depressed with the future, as something they are going to face soon without being really ready. Wearing dozens of neutral garments, hoping it is possible to be safe in layering, hunter-boots and ascetic hairpieces.
Scientific domination historical page can be depict with Bruno Pieters collection, even so all the outfits are pretty futuristic and modern, they have so clear materialistic shapes, that make you feel like studying René Descartes or Denis Diderot heritage. Rational squares, triangles, lines and sharp panels features like a staff for survay, no matter what is the object – fashion, universe or smth else. Its just presice mathematical game of the future, helping to progrimise own mind and even soul.

Strong and confident ladies, right from Victorian era were walking at Max Azria show. Although this period was marked with new technical changes and therefore firstly was very optimistic, it had plenty of painful, anxious thoughts: disharmony, desperate and death. Machines made people more free and leisure, strong and weak – in fact, they became soulless substitutes, led us to decadence. All the drama of Azria’s clothes this autumn is in its color and skirts: bold black is not classical one for the time of mental fall, but today it seems like very calm, wise and balancing those long gorgeous satin\silky\laced skirts. His girl might be a knight, full of pessimism, intended to turn back the real treasures, if they did ever existed, of course.

Whatsoever previous ladies are looking for, the last Olivier Theyskens creatures were happy and satisfied with own positions. She does not have any regrets and believes only in one absolute power – her mind and beauty. Traditional fear of emptiness and loneliness – not her story, seems like she knows the secret of the world, of human being and going to rule the next social stage – newest belle époque. Yes, this space-setter is still dreaming about high materials, but despite on other down casters, she is not bored with that, moreover – excited. I think that’s the way women of future should look like: in unbelievable high wedges, super-sharped, sculptured forms and surreal mood. But if you’ve had a dream to run away from claustrophobic reality and fixed system, you should take a trip with Alexander McQueen’s creative explosion. His women are full of sarcasm and ironic smiles, and if Nina Ricci was full of post modern princesses, Alexander showed mature queens, realizing that the only way to accept this world (too bizarre, hectic and eclectic) is playing, holding up to ridicule on beloved mass symbols, as extra big, red lips, iconic beverages, cars, legendary fashion garments. Living in the world of simulacrums, where everything in fact is just a model, surface without deepness inside, we do understand, but hardly want to admit, that its just hyper-reality surrounds us. Did McQueen show us painless way of acknowledging absurdum of everything we’ve done before?

***

on the pictures: headpiece from the ss10 X'U collection.

i guess, that item is like general trend illustration for all those things.

nw

Masha Reva's dress

As it always happens, i've found this dress by chance (in fact, via facebook). it has great wings-like-sleeves, nice colour palette and flowless skirt. I even used it styling young singer for her perfomance.

and, of course, ordered the same one for me.

model:Polina Moroz

pict: Eugenia Shabaeva

random backs from the last shooting.

Styled one of my favorite models (besides, she is going to rock paris soon) - Katya Yuspina.

inKane

lady: Dasha Shapovalova

place:Kyiv

lady:Lera

place:Kyiv

beauty pages

I've posted some backes from this shooting before, and now - here are the pages. you can find them in 1-st printed PlayingFashion issue. The main idea of the images was inspired by the personality of Joan of Arc.

style: Venya Brykalin

photography: Cate Underwood

model: Nastya K.

make-up: Sergey Turchaninov

art-direction: Olga Yanul

post-production: Igor Primak

X'U ss10 collection. backs

more than one week ago there (in kiev) has been ukrainian fashion week. as always - only few shows to name and pieces to buy. One of my favs - X'U collection with its easy, but not too flawless dresses, nice headpieces and make up.

pict by Igor Prymak

(click to enlarge)

Some of my thoughts about fashion and knights are also in PlayingFashion.
Styled by me; photography by Roman Pashkovskiy; model: Nastya@Avant; make-up: Maryna Sereda.

Thomas De Kluyver

edited. Here is the page with Thomas, published in PlayingFashion, first issue. (click to enlarge)

Some weeks ago I was very lucky to find Thomas De Kluyver’s blog (check it: http://www.thomasdekluyver.blogspot.com/). He is London-based make-up artist working for several mags, brands and projects. He used to wear gorgeous make up and he really can do it on model’s face. So, I’ve contacted him in order to make a little interview for PlayingFashion (http://www.playingfashion.com/). Before it comes out on Russian, you can read it here without any editing.

What was the first moment, you’ve realized you want to be fashion insider, beauty creator?
I guess the first moment i wanted to be a "fashion insider/ beauty creator" was when I was about 16 I was doing work experience at a fashion designers studio and this boy came in to do makeup for a photo shoot. I just thought that seemed like the coolest job and I started doing makeup on my friends.

What do you think beauty is? And fashion?
I guess for me beauty is actually making someone look beautiful! I think with makeup especially in fashion people can go down the road of too wacky! crazy! Thinking it is really creative (which it can be). For me I like to take inspiration from strong women, film and gorgeous obejects and channel them into my makeup.

I know, you’ve got your inspiration from movies, singers, artists. But who was the most significant person for you and your creativity?
There are so many significant people to me. I guess my Mum she writes and directs theatre and she really pushed me to do something I love and to move to London from a small city in Australia to follow my dreams.
What’s you dream project (fashion, editorial, advertorial or any related)?
My dream project is probably to do Courtney Love's makeup. I really adore her and I love doing peoples makeup with character it makes it so much easier when people are feeling it with you and have an opinion.

Can you name the main rules of good make up?
I know it sounds cheezy but there are no rules! Just play and have fun you can always wash it off afterwards.

You are wearing awesome make up. How do you feel it? What kind of message is it (if it is)?
I dont really wear makeup that often anymore. I used to hang out at this club called BoomBox when I first moved to London and everyone dressed up and wore loads of makeup. For me it was a way to express what I was feeling and also to get my work noticed when I arrived I knew nobody and by wearing this awesome makeup I got my first jobs!

You are contributing lots of magazines, including Dazed. As well as preparing your own project. Tell us about the last one. What should we expect?
I have different projects always on the go. My next one is going to be fabulous referencing some really amazing fashion illustration you will have to wait and see!
Whom do you prefer more: Marlen Dietrich or Cortney Love?))
I don't know if I can answer this one they are both different but represent things that I love!

What do you think about current make up tendencies? You cant go wrong with a red lip. MAC Ruby Woo is my favorite.

Thanks a lot, Thomas, keeping watching your great jobs!

All pictures from Thomas's archive.

confusion

Missing sun. and summer.

I must admit, i feel really confused this time. Started to think about things i need. about my goals and aims. about projects i'm involved. I guess, time to beat my mental lonelyness.

Nasty.Che

I’ve got up very early today. Usually it makes me feel so depressed and angry, coz I’m not a morning girl. But this time was excited, working with great model – Nastya. Her natural-softness, graceful movements and incredible eyes are just mesmerizing.

model: Nastya Chernaya

shadows

i'm not sure you can find any shadows here, but that was my mood and random song with this word.

edited: thinking to change my blog's name. any ideas?)))

red fall

Even if someone is looking for some grey\dark autumn shades, its all about red this season. and, it looks very funny and playful - kind of last sunny days celebration.

This shot was made for the streetstyle line of pictures for my article about the drapes, but at the end - was not published. But i really love the way she's moving here, so subtle and easy.

Top and bag made by young designer Vlada Panchenko

model: Katya Yuspina

photo:Max Goncharuk

lookbook preview

Just made some lookbook pictures for the ss2010 Veronika Jeanvie collection. Bit of warriors mixed with catwomen and noble girl – that’s what designer suggests for the next season.
Model: Katya Yuspina
Photo: Max Goncharuk
Styled by me

lifeless flowers

place: Bran, Romania